Yucatán discovering Maya, Cenotes and hidden treasures
Yucatán between mystical cenotes, colonial cities, Mayan sites such as Chichén Itzá and Uxmal, and local festivals in Tixkokob. A journey rich in history, culture and adventure between Merida and Valladolid for authentic thrills.
My trip to the Yucatán was an unforgettable experience, an immersion among colonial towns, magical cenotes and archaeological sites that tell the thousand-year history of the Mayan civilization.
With a rental car, I had the freedom to explore this fascinating peninsula on my own, avoiding overly touristy destinations like Cancún and focusing on authentic places rich in tradition.
Index
The Displacements in Yucatán
The best way to visit Yucatán is definitely by rental car. This solution allows you to comfortably cover the great distances of the immense Yucatán plain, where cities are on average about an hour and a half apart.
By organizing a trip in stages, you can enjoy each destination at your own pace, with the freedom to take detours to visit hidden cenotes or small villages along the way.
An alternative would be the train, which connects some of the major cities such as Cancún, Mérida, Izamal and Playa del Carmen. However, you should arm yourself with patience for frequent delays and limit yourself to this option if time is not a priority.
For those traveling in groups, you can hire a driver with a car or minivan, a convenient but more expensive option. Alternatively, you can rely on local contacts to find more affordable private drivers.
If you need advice, please feel free to write to me for more useful information.
Merida Capital of Yucatán
Merida, a beautiful, vibrant and welcoming colonial city, was the central part of my trip to discover this beautiful Mexican peninsula. Known as the“White City” for its limestone buildings, Merida is a cultural center rich in tradition and art. Here I spent several days exploring:
- San Ildefonso Cathedral, one of the oldest in the Americas.
- The Government Palace, with murals telling the history of the region.
- Paseo de Montejo, an elegant street lined with historic European-style buildings, including the famous Casa de Montejo.
Merida is a beautiful, safe, colorful and culturally rich city, like its inhabitants. It has two well-defined souls: a “super local” one, where you can get lost among the traditional small stores and mobile cafes frequented by local Mexicans, and a more “modern” one, which offers elegant restaurants and top-notch cultural attractions.
Where to eat
To savor typical Yucatecan dishes, I recommend the mini street kiosks such as Taqueria La Lupita, where you can enjoy excellent poc chuc. Restaurants in town offer a good variety of options, with low prices and average quality. Don’t miss a visit to local chocolate shop Ki’Xocolatl, renowned for its handmade chocolate, a treat that combines tradition and flavor.
Culture
Merida is a culturally rich city, with numerous bookstores, historical and contemporary art museums. It is worth exploring the local art galleries and catching a show at the Peón Contreras Theater, which boasts interesting and varied programming.
Overnight stays
The city offers a wide range of accommodations, including hotels and apartments located in old colonial houses. Staying in one of these accommodations is an experience that allows you to fully immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere of Yucatán.
Local experiences: the Hidden Cenotes
With Charlie, founder of the freediving schoolDharma, I explored cenotes hidden in the jungle. Each cenote has a history and its own uniqueness: some are covered by rock domes, others completely open, with deep blue waters.
Both training sessions and free dives can be done (arrangements must be made in advance), and the experience is really worth the whole trip.
After two hours of diving that I wished would never end, we had lunch at a typical local house, enjoying dishes such as cochinita pibil and handmade tortillas. This experience was a perfect blend of adventure and culture, and I highly recommend (even for those who use tanks) to try it.
Apnea trips to cenotes are to be arranged privately with local instructors and schools. I have written about them in this article. Contact me for more information.
Valladolid, the colonial heart of Yucatán
My adventure began in Valladolid, a charming colonial town located in the heart of Yucatán. With its central park, majestic San Servacio Cathedral and cobblestone streets, Valladolid offers an authentic and relaxing atmosphere. The pueblo retains its old-world charm and is perfect for strolling at sunset, when the soft lights make everything more atmospheric. I spent three nights here, taking advantage of the time to explore the surroundings and enjoy local life.
In town, don’t miss Cenote Zaci, a lovely place to cool off with a rejuvenating bath. This cenote is easily accessible and is surrounded by lush vegetation. Valladolid is also famous for its markets, such as the Municipal Market, where you can buy fresh produce and local crafts. The stalls offer a wide variety of typical dishes, such as chicken pibil and tamales.
Of the restaurants, I recommend trying those that offer authentic local recipes and cuisine that mixes Mayan and Spanish influences.
Chichén Itzá: one of the 7 Wonders of the World
From Valladolid I quickly reached Chichén Itzá, one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This ancient ceremonial center of the Maya, built between the 6th and 9th centuries, was an important political, economic and religious hub. The city was dedicated to Kukulkán, the feathered serpent, one of the Maya’s most revered deities. Kukulkán, also known as Quetzalcoatl in Toltec and Aztec culture, represented the link between heaven and earth, symbolizing knowledge, fertility, and spiritual rebirth.
Some of the most iconic buildings include:
- El Castillo (Temple of Kukulkán): the stepped pyramid with the famous feathered serpent effect during the equinoxes, an optical phenomenon that testifies to the advanced astronomical knowledge of the Maya. Thirty meters high, this structure dominates the site and served as a solar calendar.
- The Temple of a Thousand Columns: a huge portico surrounded by columns that once supported a roof. It is believed to have been a kind of market or public assembly area. Its construction demonstrates the Toltec influence in architectural design.
- The Astronomical Observatory (El Caracol): a round structure used by the Maya to study the sky. Its windows were oriented toward specific astronomical events, such as solstices and eclipses.
- La Casa de las Monjas (House of the Nuns): a large residential complex with fine architectural details. Despite the name given by the Spanish, it was not a convent, but probably an administrative or residential palace for the elite.
- The pelota game field: the largest in Mesoamerica, where ritual games with profound religious and social implications took place. The walls of the field are decorated with reliefs depicting game scenes and sacrifices.
- The Sacred Cenote: used for ceremonies and sacrifices, a place that evokes mystery and spirituality. This cenote was considered a gateway to the world of the gods, and it is believed that human sacrifices and precious objects were offered there.
To visit Chichén Itzá, I recommend devoting about 3 hours. Walking through these ruins is like taking a journey through time, immersing yourself in the culture and cosmological vision of the Maya.
Ps. arrive early in the morning because the site fills up with many tourists and if you can avoid weekends (days when residents have free access).
Tulum: cenotes and adventure
Uxmal and the charm of Puuc architecture
Among the most striking archaeological sites in Yucatán stands out Uxmal, a Mayan city that represents the best of Puuc-style architecture . This style is distinguished by the decorative richness and intricate facades of the structures. Uxmal, built between the 6th and 10th centuries, was an important ceremonial and cultural center.
Visiting Uxmal was a unique experience for me: in early November, the site was virtually deserted except for a few small groups with local guides. Unlike Chichén Itzá, which is much busier, Uxmal allows one to enjoy the visit in peace, immersing oneself in the charm of a place that seems almost suspended in time.
Some of the most iconic buildings include:
- The Pyramid of the Soothsayer: About 35 meters high, this unique oval pyramid is shrouded in legends. It is said to have been built in a single night by a magician.
- The Nun’s Quadrangle: a complex with four buildings decorated with geometric patterns and masks of Chaac, the rain god.
- The Governor’s Palace: one of the largest and finest structures in Uxmal, considered a masterpiece of Mayan architecture.
- The Pequeno Juego de Pelota: a smaller version of the Chichén Itzá playground, where four players competed with a solid rubber ball weighing about 3 kg. One of the “hoops” used to score points can still be seen.
The site takes about 2 hours to explore thoroughly. Walking through the ruins of Uxmal is a magical experience, allowing you to immerse yourself in the grandeur and ingenuity of the Maya, away from the crowds of more famous sites.
Playa del Carmen is also Cenote Maravilla
The last stop was Playa del Carmen, for me a base for a final farewell to the Cenotes (as well as finally some Caribbean Sea).
I chose this destination because it was the base of Pedro Tapia (recent CNF national title holder) and his Apena Mexico school, as well as near the Cenote Maravilla. After the day of free and cable diving, with divers on the bottom exploring the caves, we ended with a typical lunch in Puerto Morelos.
Playa itself, on the other hand, is a very touristy town (unfortunately) overlooking the Costa Maya. Beaches with spectacular Caribbean waters and a convenient base for exploring the area. It is also a good starting point for visiting Cozumel, an island famous for its extraordinary seabed, perfect for snorkeling and diving.
Apnea trips to cenotes are to be arranged privately with local instructors and schools. I wrote about them in this article. Contact me for more information.
Tixkokob and Izamal: the hidden treasures of Yucatán
Tixkokob
Famous for the production of hammocks. This authentic pueblo is a place where the local culture is alive and tangible. You will not find tourists here, but you can immerse yourself in the daily life of the inhabitants.
Traditional festivals are held throughout the year, both in the center of the village and in the surrounding area, where you can participate freely. These events are a unique opportunity to experience the joy and hospitality of the community, with music, dancing, and passionately prepared traditional dishes. It is also pleasant to explore Tixkokob by day with a local tuktuk, among hammock stores, cafes or a typical lunch at an inn a few blocks from the center.
Izamal: the Yellow City
This little colonial gem is a magical place, with the Basilica of San Antonio de Padua built on top of an ancient Mayan pyramid. This symbol of cultural fusion between the indigenous and Spanish worlds was completed in the 17th century. Izamal’s special feature is the yellow color that covers every building, a tribute to the colors of the Vatican and a symbol of unity and faith.
Don’t miss the pyramid of Kinich Kakmó, from which there are breathtaking views of the vast Yucatán plain.
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